Holy Moly! Crikey! and other cheesy expressions of shock! If anyone would’ve said that this meat-infested beast could be found at such an unlikely venue, I would have called their ‘Bullsh*t’ right there and then. However this cholesterol tower (appropriately named ‘The Stack),’ can be found at the Brasserie within the Malmaison Hotel in Farringdon (and all other Malmaison hotels outside London).
‘The Stack’ (£19.95) to put it in simple terms, is a baby burger mounted on top of a daddy burger. The masterpiece contains 250 grams of beef, cheese, lettuce, tomato, then a pile of onion rings topped with a foie gras slider (and also comes with a bucket of French fries).
My first decision days before taking on ‘The Stack’ was to mentally prepare myself, but how does one even do that? Then I decided i’d not eat anything on the day. Finally, I realised that the best thing to do, was not to think about it too much and just go with the flow. It’s just an effin’ burger after all and starving myself on the day, would just make my belly shrink, resulting in me only managing two fries anyway – as if I’d let that happen.
‘May I have ‘The Stack’ please?’ I cheerfully asked the waiter; his response – a smirk, a three second analysis of my skinny frame, followed by an ’of course miss’. I knew what he was thinking and I don’t blame him either, especially as my guest and I had already consumed two starters beforehand.
How on earth do you eat this burger? Well my advice is to eat the two burgers separately and munch on the onion rings in between. No brainer!
I started with the ‘main’ burger at the bottom. A bit overcooked for my liking, (I asked for medium as they don’t serve medium/rare but it felt like it was ‘well-done’) however it was pretty enjoyable. Wonderfully toasted and glistening brioche buns, plus two scrumptiously seasoned patties with beefy fat oozing in all the right places.
The foie gras slider was divine. The foie gras was cut thick, its texture was silky smooth and the taste – powerful and oh so rich. I found its separation from beef splendid, as well as the fat soaking through the mini buns which added to the decadence of the dish.
Overall, ‘The Stack’ is much more ‘do-able’ than its aesthetic portrays. Do not get me wrong it is a challenge, but anyone with a healthy appetite (or an over-active one) would be able to finish it. Definitely have a crack at it. Fans of rich foods would approve.
Just don’t indulge in one too often or God knows what you may turn in to.