So very on trend, Balls & Company is Soho’s latest addition to a growing set of restaurants that value simplicity above eccentricity. Browsing the stripped down menu whilst nibbling on the obligatory parsnip crisps, you’ll quickly catch the drift. There’s just one starter, 5 kinds of meat balls, 4 sauces and 2 deserts on offer across a menu that fits on a single side of a5.
Fortunately everything on it is delicious. We started with a Burrata of exceptional delicacy, which made up its richness with the addition hazelnut, and caramelised pear and apple, and finding it nearly impossible to put down our forks, we were impressed from the outset.
For a mains In keeping with the theme of simplicity, we recommend the Wagyu meat balls with the Tomato sauce which show off an incredible depth of flavour achieved with only a few well chosen ingredients. Likewise the notably isometric polenta chips, proved simple in form but complex in texture, and struck us as so very Bauhaus or Lasdunesque.
In a well thought out the twist on the theme’s formality, the Brownie, with its quiff of silvery Persian Candy, invited play and humour. Likewise, whilst the minimalist 40 seater interior really does take its cue from the world of design and engineering, the softly lit snug atmosphere and friendly staff meant inside feelt no less warm and inviting.
Our overall impression was that Balls & Company is that truly rare thing, a concept embraced fully, immaculately executed, and done so with passion. No wonder that even on a drizly school-night there was a small cue out the door.