Located at the top of Moorgate’s South Place Hotel you will find the Michelin-starred Angler, a fish-focused restaurant that showcases accomplished pairings and picture-perfect dishes.
The menu is satisfyingly seasonal (changing monthly), with an emphasis on serving sustainable seafood from British waters – no mean feat in our increasingly crowded seas.
It seemed only fitting (given that I am leaving London for a while) to take my seaside-loving mother to feast on elaborate fish dishes, as well as some of the best wine I have ever been lucky enough to try.
Upon arrival we were handed a glass of crisp Moët and sampled lovely little bowls of potato and samphire soup, which was an excellent introduction, creamy and salty with beautiful bright greens.
We started with a salad of apple and celeriac, crab mayonnaise, grapes and candied walnuts – an incredibly pretty plate, and very subtle in flavour. To contrast with the more dainty crab we decided on another richer starter of sautéed lamb sweetbreads, mint jelly, peas and cured ham, which was paired with a glass of Tokara Director’s Reserve from Stellenbosch. The Tokara was staggering – quite possibly the best white wine I have ever tasted.
For our main courses we plumped for roast loin of pork with barbeque shoulder, sweetcorn, pickled apple and spring onion, which was very tender and had an astonishingly good depth of flavour. A lighter dish of Cornish cod, seaweed tartare, summer cabbage, carrot and ginger puree was fresh, with a real taste of the sea from the seaweed. Both were cooked to perfection.
Unintentionally, but in line with the rest of the meal, our desserts were completely opposite. We started with decadent Marjari chocolate ganache, which came alongside banana and caramelised peanuts. This was paired with Sauternes Réserve, Domaine Rousset-Peyraguey, which was sweet, rich, nutty and everything else that you’d want in a dessert.
We also enjoyed a sublime lemon posset with white chocolate crumb and lavender, which was a more refined dish bus still utterly delightful; it cleansed the palate and looked just as great as it tasted, especially when paired with a sparkling Ca’ d’Gal from Piemonte.
If you’ve read a few of my articles by now, it will come as no surprise that I was torn between the sweet and the cheesy options for our final course. Happily our waiter kindly provided a small plate of the Colston Bassett Stilton with a fruit loaf and homemade jelly to try after our desserts – just one example of the fantastic attention to detail and impeccable service we experienced throughout.
We left South Place beaming from our tremendous meal, and from enjoying a fantastic evening together before I move away. It hadn’t quite hit me until then what lovely experiences and inspiring people I would be leaving behind. Although I doubt I’ll be away long – well, I know I won’t – I have to visit Angler again.
South Place Hotel
3 South Place